Sense of Place 8

Kayaking on Loch Lomond

So the tour draws to a close, but rather than one long drive back we decide to stage the trip by stopping on Loch Lomond for two days. 

The loch was at times a bit choppy

We were at times drawn to walking rather than bouncing about on the water. Though our campsite was secluded next to a small bay with launching from the back of the van there were also plenty of footpaths including the West Highland Way just a couple of hundred yards away. This meant we quickly discovered that although looking remote, the local area was in fact a hive of activity, especially as we stayed into the weekend, finding that the area became an obvious escape for the citizens of Stirling, Dunbarton and Glasgow. What does continue to puzzle though is the perceived need for people to bring all their belongings. It seems that instead of enjoying this place they are simply transferring their home space temporarily to the countryside, with large caravans with satellite TV, loud music, barbeques, well stocked fridges of beer (or are we in danger of becoming 'countryside snobs'). We need to be mindful of the fact that while the parents are watching their tv's and cleaning their gas guzzling 4x4s at least the kids are climbing trees, enjoying their time in open space!

Sense of Place 7 - sea eagles

White tailed or Sea Eagle

Walking around Glenuig today we stopped for lunch overlooking the bay and were fortunate enough to see two white tailed or sea eagles take off and fly low directly in front of us. The trip became even more special when we spotted golden eagle soaring the slopes of Rois Beinn.

It is easy to see how such sights can make a place feel special for the visitor, but if you've lived in an area all your life do you appreciate the same sites, are they simply part of the fabric of your daily life and if not these what are you mindful of? What do you connect with?

When we get so involved with our everyday existence do we need to adopt specific practices to help us maintain a connection with the natural place around us and if so what form do these take?

Sense of Place 6

Our campsite launch area

From Mallaig we head south, hoping to find a campsite that 'feels' right rather than having decided in advance from a list of sites from the tourist information and some recommended by friends. In the end we nearly got to a site a friend told us about but were instead attracted by a new site with obvious access to the sea. This proved a great location, with sheltered launch point and attractive routes North and South around the coast. Even at this site we met people who were 'incomers'. The owners were a husband and wife team, she had first visited working in hotels before moving to to the South Coast of England. She missed the hills and rugged coast so much she'd always wanted  to return. He was a former Glaswegian builder who sold his business after twenty years to move to the area he'd also holidayed in.  The owners of the local hotel were English (though they contended well with the nationalistic banter of other locals during our visit) who'd also sold up to start afresh in the area.

Talking to people it seems that many try to earn a living but move away due to family / low income and other pressures, while others move to the area having identified new opportunities (the campsite) or being able to work to different levels now the family had grown (the hoteliers). Interesting to look at how external pressures influence these decisions. There appears to be good technological accessibility with people working as software designers, authors, publishers from home, connected by broadband services that equal those of cities where speeds often get reduced due to volume access requirements. There are good roads, local rail services, links that are rare in areas such as rural Cumbria. So do people need stronger family ties including family businesses e.g. fishing, to encourage them to stay or is it natural to want to move away - to see the 'big wide world'. Are there consumerist pressures that make city life more attractive at a certain age with people returning to their roots or the place they make a connection with as they get older? All issues to examine in order to understand 'sense of place' and how it effects ourselves and others.

Sense of Place Tour 5

Final views as we leave the Summer Isles

Moving from the Summer Isles to Arasaig we decided to 'cut the corner' by driving over the bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh to Skye and then drive down to Armadale to catch the ferry to Mallaig. Stopping in Kyle of Lochalsh it soon became apparent that that is all many people do - stop rather than stay. There seem to be streams of coaches which step, jettison their passengers for a short while of coffee breaks, photo opportunities and shopping (for nothing that is really needed!), missing the time needed to spot the harbour porpoises, the seals, otters and all the scenery that is part of 'place'.

Moving over to Skye we decide to stay overnight (not having a fixed itinerary has meant having a greater sense of freedom, the opportunity to really explore) and drive to a campsite near Dunvegan. Although we stay on an award winning site at the side of a loch we notice we must have been spoilt by the fantastic views and drama of the highlands as we feel the whole area seems flat and grey. We address this by lochside walks (the winds are too high to be on the water) and the next day tour some of the remoter parts of NW Skye - great walking areas and back into mountains. We then move to Kylerhea where we walk into the nature reserve over looking the sea to spend a few hours seal watching.

Seal watching

From here it is a short drive to Armadale for the ferry. It has been interesting talking to 'locals' about their life here. Many of those we speak to are 'locals' only in terms of now living in the 'place' rather than familial or other ties. They are 'incomers' who having visited, have decided to stay (or at least move to here!), some from other parts of Scotland or England, others from much greater distance such as New Zealand, all attracted by the 'place' and what makes it special for them, even if they struggle to define what that is in our short discussions. This obviously opens up areas which can be explored in more detail on another occasion.

Sense of Place Tour 4

Ecohome

Having been in the Summer Isles (though actually also picking up on what we've seen and heard as we travelled) for a short while, we're noticing people seem more connected to the place, to their environment. The books in the bookshop we thought were aimed at tourists but apparently books on nature, philosophy and local history are more likely to be bought by locals. There are strong community groups, campaigning, lift sharing, activities, people taking responsibility.

As kayakers using the beaches we've helped with a beach clean, locals coming together to protect their environment. We've met people who have settled here from other areas not just for the views, or connections with nature, but the sense of community, the sense of warmth and safety and though many have 'downsized' they say the quality rather than quantity of life is better.

We're also noticing the flexibility, seeing the same person doing a number of jobs in order to be sufficient, the person who spends time as warden of a hostel during the summer and coordinating a footpath scheme in the winter. The person who writes software from a croft  with a view of the bay, while looking after the sheep too. People seem to have a greater sense of themselves, a confidence in their choices and less dependence on big brands, TV, having more. A community influenced by and for its members rather than external pressures. And this isn't painting a 'rosy' glow. In winter it's hard, longer periods of darkness, roads blocked, bad weather but still people do things and while some move away some communities are stronger with 'incomers' contributing rather than trying to change things to suit themselves.

Sense of Place Tour 3 - Summer Isles

Heading into the bay after a squall, waves breaking over rocks

Our first time in new touring kayaks (other than test paddles pre & post purchase). Initial feelings of nervousness - argh they're wobbly! Then we remember the instructions that we should 'wear' our kayaks, positioning ourselves well, locking into the boat and allowing it to respond with our movement rather than our reacting to every wave, swell, ripple. Typical instructions for mindfulness too, being aware, noticing how we're feeling, connecting, allows us to make choices - to respond rather than react.

Before coming to the Summer Isles we were warned not to expect summer! and today is a great example, we have all seasons in one day, and it's great to notice this, be comfortable with it (we are after all well equipped - believing there is no such thing as bad weather just inappropriate choices of clothing and activity!). So walking up to a cuckoo and the sun this morning, then kayaking in a breeze and light rain, then a walk and it's hailing, but no the sun comes out again and it's really warm, but then in the middle of our walk it gets cold and we're in a blizzard. But we get back to road and a cafe just as sun comes out and we sit outside in T shirts. Strange world. 

Bring on the elements!

Sense of Place Tour 2 - Summer Isles

First View of the Summer Isles

A long but very pleasant drive via Inverness and food in Ullapool - good cafe/bar/bookshop see http://www.theceilidhplace.com  

We drive past Stac Pollaidh with its stunning rock ridge and finally come over the crest to approach Altandhu and our first view of the Summer Isles - breathtaking! When we're mindful of a view, a scene, what is it that so engages us we are lost for words, breathless, tearful?

Park the van in the campsite and settle in, cup of tea looking at the view, very relaxing,

Campsite and view - Altandhu

is it the tea or simply that we've stopped, have the opportunity to take in our surroundings and be mindful of ourselves in this place.

The 'Tengrian' approach, that of the nomadic culture of Kyrgyzstan, would suggest we find it easy to relax here because we can 'centre' ourselves in this place easily. There is water to connect us to our experience, ancestors, past teaching; mountains and trees to connect us to the sky world, the future and we can see in all directions. Be at one with the place.

Sense of Place Tour 1 - Loch Ness

The locks at Fort Augustus

Travelling on the first leg of our 'sense of place' tour I'm struck by how disappointing 'social housing' is. Surely planners can commission designers with some skills so that housing can be somewhere people are pleased to call 'home'? We passed through Dumfries where it was immediately obvious when we passed over the bypass into an area where there was less care, less interest in how the place looked. This was then mirrored by the litter, graffiti shops etc. It isn't difficult to encourage people to respect the 'place' they live, lots of areas manage it. The new housing scheme in Aviemore is a great example of rented, shared and full ownership in houses that look good, aren't all the same and are surrounded by green space.

Travelling on to Fort Augustus at the side of Loch Ness I'm struck by how much easier it is for people who travel light to get through from the loch to the canal. The large power boats have to wait and take a long time to progress up or down. The canoes, kayaks and cyclists on the great glen train simply pass in minutes. Is this an example of less is better?